Not all about taste or perceived prestige for Valpolicella. As the economy slows and a generation of consumers changes, expectations for its wines are shifting.
A big part of the Valpolicella lies to the east. Being furthest away from Lake Garda, the eastern side of the region experiences notable continental. But never undermine the talents of these winemakers. In the best hands, even a 17 per cent alcohol behemoth can perform like a tightrope walker.
The word classic implies an area of historical and cultural importance, and by no means a reflection of the style of wines that have been in place for centuries. In fact, almost all historical regions in the world are evolving in their own ways, expressing the best flavour they could without forsaking the traditions they sacredly guard.